Dick Page, Shiseido’s artistic director, is pretty much a beauty-obsessed editor’s dream. When he told us what look he was going for at the Mexican/Spaghetti Western-themed Band of Outsiders show, he didn’t leave out one detail.
"I’m making them a little bit bronzy in tones—gold and bronze highlights mixed together, but not in a sculpty glamorous way," he told me. "They’ll look a little bit dusty. A little bit dirty. They have white or gold highlights—depending on their skin tone—around the eyes on the brow bone. The eyebrows are pretty amped up, but still pretty natural. The black girls get this caviar cream eyeshadow. The redheads get reddish brown. The blondes get sable. The idea is that when they step out, they just look great and like they belong in this narrative."
"There are two sets of girls: the boy girls and the girl girls," he continued. "The difference is that the girl girls get a slash of red on the middle of the lower lip. It’s called Nocturnal from Shiseido—it’s a slightly bloody lip. It looks brutal up close, but from the perspective of the runway it looks like there’s an element of something going on. There’s nothing graphic that’s defining the face. There’s no mascara, no eyeliner. Hopefully, they look like they live in his clothes."
And let’s not forget about that hair. A messy runway "down-do" is everything I want for my hair in real life. Duffy, who sports a pretty rad, long hairstyle himself told me and Teen Vogue‘s Laurel Pantin just how to get it:
"’Prairie girls’ is the phrase that’s being thrown around, but not in a three-seasons-ago Rodarte way. It’s a girl that lives on the outside. We’re not using any combs or brushes. We’re overloading the hair with thickening spray—saturating the hair from the root to the end. There’s no parting the hair. Everything dries down from the head as it falls. We’re just drying it flat and using the nozzle to break up the texture. We’re overdrying the hair. And that’s going to give it this dusty, dead feel. After we’ve done that, there’s a little bit of teasing to break the silhouette and a spritz of Bumble and Bumble surf spray."
This was by far the best hair and makeup that I’ve seen all week. And it didn’t hurt that the model casting was supreme—while backstage, a male model smiled at me and I awkwardly stared at him, melting slightly inside.
More on Luckymag.com:
- Celebs We Want To See at New York Fashion Week
- Whitney Houston Dies at 48
- Jen Kao Fall 2012: Holy Kao
- Rachel Comey is Back in Black for Fall 2012
- Jill Stuart Fall 2012: Embroidered Florals and Moody Hues
For more backstage beauty at New York Fashion Week: Follow @RaySiegel
Keep up with the Lucky team on Twitter: Follow @LuckyMagazine